Nothing says the holidays like the aroma of ginger, cinnamon and cloves, a trifecta of warm, spicy flavors that’s irresistible whether it’s in bread, cake or pie — or in a simple gingersnap.

Homemade ginger cookies are always tops — no matter the flavor or texture — but for this feature, we searched store shelves for ginger cookies to please.

Great ginger cookies — whether they’re snaps or soft, chewy bites — are packed with spice, molasses and a hit of gingery heat. A backdrop of spice is a plus, but ginger should be the first thing you taste and the last flavor that lingers. The very best include ginger every which way — powdered, fresh and even candied.

Unfortunately, far too many commercial ginger cookies miss in so many ways. Some quash that signature flavor with too much molasses, sugar or spice. Others offer hard, dry, dismal bites of floury nothingness. And ingredient lists are little help here. So we gathered more than a dozen versions and tasted.

Here’s the scoop on the ginger cookies worth a taste — and those best left on the shelf. Nutrition details refer to a 28 to 30 gram serving, which can be two to nine cookies, depending on size.

Trader Joe’s Triple Ginger Snaps

With their tiny chunks of ginger, these buttery, crispy, coin-sized snaps deliver bold ginger flavor, serious spice and just the right amount of sugar. Note that these might not be a kid-favorite — the heat level is substantial. 130 calories, 4.5 g fat, 180 mg sodium, 9 g sugar. $3.99 for 14 ounces. (4 stars)

Trader Joe’s Triple Ginger Cookie Thins

Delicate and crispy, these wafers are sweet, but deliver a generous bolt of concentrated ginger flavor that heats the palate. The combination of crunch + sweet + heat is dangerously addictive. 130 calories, 4 g fat, 105 mg sodium, 11 g sugar. $3.99 for 9 ounces. (4 stars)

Sprouts Market Old Fashioned Ginger Flavored Snaps

Deep molasses flavor and a good hit of ginger make these crispy bites one of the best traditional gingersnaps. They’re more crunchy than crispy, but not hard or dry. 120 calories, 4.5 g fat, 65 mg sodium, 8 g sugar. $1.99 for 14 ounces at Sprouts Market. (3½ stars)

Bakery Street Ginger Cookies

These soft, chewy cookies are perfect for those who crave a spicy, rich bite of holiday flavors. They are delicious, but allspice and cloves nearly eclipse the ginger. 120 calories, 4 g fat, 90 mg sodium, 10.5 g sugar. $6.69 for 24 ounces at Costco. (3 stars)

Great Value Ginger Snaps

Even though these are hard, flat, and far too dry, the amount of ginger in the mix is impressive. These would be great for recipes that call for crushed gingersnaps. 122 calories, 3.5 g fat, 141 mg sodium, 9 g sugar. $1.98 for 16 ounces at Walmart. (3 stars)

Anna’s Swedish Ginger Thins

The lack of ginger in these crispy cookies makes them a poor choice for those looking for a ginger cookie. That said, they’re a tasty crunch for fans of dark molasses. 144 calories, 6 g fat, 144 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $3.29 for 5.25 ounces at Raley’s. (2 stars)

Trader Joe’s Gluten-Free Crispy Crunchy Ginger Chunk Cookies

Chunks of dried, candied ginger in these rounds is a plus, but the cookie itself is ginger-free and over-browned. 130 calories, 4 g fat, 170 mg sodium, 13 g sugar. $3.99 for 7 ounces. (1½ stars)

First Street Ginger Snaps

The pleasantly thick, crispy texture of these flat rounds is a plus, but they taste more like flour than ginger. 127 calories, 4 g fat, 127 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $2.39 for 12 ounces at Smart & Final. (1½ stars)

Signature Select Ginger Snaps Cookies

These light-colored cookies taste flat and are so dry, they’re hard on the teeth. 127 calories, 4 g fat, 127 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $2.99 for 12 ounces at Safeway. (1½ stars)

Mi Del Swedish Style Ginger Snaps

No spice, too much sugar and an unpleasant grainy texture makes these ginger-free bites the brand to avoid. 140 calories, 5 g fat, 100 mg sodium, 11 g sugar. $2.79 for 8 ounces at Raley’s.(½ a star)

Nabisco Ginger Snaps

These ultra-sweet snaps are hard, thin and molasses-forward. Ginger was not invited to this party. 120 calories, 2.5 g fat, 190 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $4.46 for 16 ounces at Walmart. (½ a star)

Mi-Del Swedish Style Gluten Free Ginger Snaps

The strange, nutty flavor of these no-ginger snaps is all wrong. They are bland bites of grainy something, but we’re not sure what. 140 calories, 5 g fat, 100 mg sodium, 11 g sugar. $2.79 for 8 ounces at Raley’s. (No stars)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.