Some people wrinkle their noses at the idea of chickpeas morphing into dessert, before they even give it a try. But those willing to take a chance know that dessert hummus can be an unexpected treat.

Unlike savory hummus, dessert versions of the chickpea-based puree are stirred up with a touch of sugar and sweet flavors, such as vanilla bean, chocolate, key lime and cinnamon, turning them into creamy, plant-based dips that taste like cookie or cake batter. Served with slices of fruit or pretzels, it’s a minimally sweet dessert with a nutritious kick of fiber and protein.

The concept, born a few years ago, has been gaining momentum since the now ubiquitous Delighted By brand got a big thumbs-up on “Shark Tank.” Big hummus companies such as Lantana, Boar’s Head and Tribe jumped into the category, launching a handful of new flavors. Unfortunately, not all brands can be found at local stores — and some stores don’t have any at all — but the good ones are worth seeking out.

Made right, a great dessert hummus is creamy and rich in dessert flavors — with zero chickpea flavor.  The less successful versions tend to be bland, sugary and forgettable, due to low quality ingredients and inattention to flavor balance.

Here’s the scoop on the very best — and the wonky flavored dips that won’t please anyone. Nutrition info refers to 2 tablespoons.

Delighted By Creamy Vanilla Bean

Huge, authentic vanilla flavor in a creamy mix of chickpeas, rice milk powder and coconut oil make this a flavor-dense bite that’s great on a spoon — or used to frost a cupcake. 60 calories, 2.5 g fat, 35 mg sodium, 6 g sugar. $1.49 for 8 ounces at Grocery Outlet. (4 stars)

Delighted By Snicker Doodle Cookie

Fans of cinnamon will love this thick puree. It’s rich and packed with the warm flavor of top-notch cinnamon. 60 calories, 2.5 g fat, 35 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. This brand makes a wide range of flavors that are available online; you can also find it for $5.99 for 8 ounces at Whole Foods, $1.49 at Grocery Outlet, and occasionally at Target. (4 stars)

Amazing Chickpea Chocolate

The primary flaw in this ultra-rich, decadent spread is its super-thick texture, which is not likely to stand up to delicate dippers. It’s more like a thick fudge sauce than a dip, but the dark chocolate flavor is impressive. 160 calories, 10 g fat, 10 mg sodium, 10 g sugar. $9.99 for 16 ounces on Amazon. (3½ stars)

Trader Joe’s Chocolate

A decent hit of chocolate and creamy texture make this a great dip or frosting replacement. It’s fresh, pleasant and sweet without being cloying. 50 calories, 1.5 g fat, 90 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. $1.99 for 8 ounces. (3 stars)

Tribe Vanilla Bean

This ho-hum blend is OK, but it’s a bit salty and lacks true vanilla flavor. 70 calories, 3.5 g fat, 105 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. It’s sold as a dessert hummus tri-pack; 18 ounces for $6.99 at Raley’s. (2 stars)

Tribe Dark Chocolate Hummus

Understated chocolate and a floury flavor make this easy to skip. 50 calories, 1 g fat, 75 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. Sold as a hummus tri-pack; 18 ounces for $6.99 at Raley’s; also available in a pack of six 2-ounce cups for $1.49 at Grocery Outlet. (2 stars)

Boar’s Head Dark Chocolate Dessert Hummus

It looks like chocolate, but it doesn’t smell or taste like it. This spread has way more sugar than chocolate. 80 calories, 4.5 g fat, 40 mg sodium, 6 g sugar. $4.99 for 8 ounces at Safeway. (1 star)

Tribe Sea Salt Caramel

If consistency was all that mattered, this ultra-creamy, dulce de leche-like caramel would earn high marks. But the fake caramel flavor just tastes fake. 80 calories, 4 g fat, 115 mg sodium, 5 g sugar. Part of tri-pack of dessert hummus; 18 ounces for $6.99 at Raley’s. (½ a star)

Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.